City Guide: Athens’ Creative Renaissance
The cradle of democracy marches on.
Athens may be among the world’s oldest cities, but it never stops reinventing itself. Once-scruffy neighborhoods such as Psyri and Metaxourgeio, with leafy squares and labyrinthine backstreets, have grown into centers of creativity and cool. Tucked between drab housing blocks in the suburb of Agios Pavlos, the Alekos Fassianos Museum, opened in 2023, spotlights the contemporary masterworks of an overlooked artist Athenians consider “the Picasso of Greece.” Ancient history is getting fresh attention too – an excavation site opened to the public a few years ago under the modern Acropolis Museum gets visitors close to the remains of villas and bathhouses once visible only through protective glass from above.
A good start at Linou Soumpasis k sia.
Eat
Volvi serves souvlaki with soul. The newish spot on the calmer edge of bustling Varvakeios Market spices up whatever’s fresh from nearby stalls and meat counters for some of the city’s tastiest skewered beef, pork, and veggies. If you can’t decide how to top your soutzoukakia (oblong meatballs), order them with “everything”: onions, tomatoes, mustard, peppers, and a dash of ouzo.
At Pharaoh in youthful Exarcheia, “modern Greek” translates as seasonal stews simmered over a wood fire, natural wines, and a DJ spinning vinyl for some of the city’s most discerning diners. With its wine bar and concrete-walled restaurant, the atmosphere is as eclectic as Pharaoh’s four owners: a chef, an opera singer, a wine aficionado, and a food journalist.
Unpretentious, supremely delicious Linou Soumpasis k sia occupies a former candle shop (you can still buy its candles at the restaurant) in the Psyri neighborhood, known more for Greek blues clubs and graffiti than Michelin-recommended standouts like this. Greek Island amberjack and mackerel come straight off the grill, and the puffy sourdough pita is baked in-house.
Drink
Inside a former art warehouse ten minutes from central Athens, the celebrated bar maestros at Line concoct almost everything from scratch, from vermouth fermented with pomegranate and house-made IPAs to “grapeless” wines made of apple, strawberry, and honey – drinks for today’s Greek deities.
Anthologist’s selection of textiles and home goods.
Shop
Newly glam Vathis Square got a boost in 2023 when Anthologist opened its flagship store in a renovated 1912 neoclassical building. The self-proclaimed “secret source for design aficionados” has gallery vibes, though everything is for sale: folk-art figurines, blown-glass amphora vases, upcycled fringed bags, and more.
Closer to the city center, Monastiraki Flea Market is the Sunday spot for quirky treasures, whether it’s a 1940s Underwood typewriter with Greek characters or chunky, amber-colored Bakelite komboloi (worry beads). The rest of the week, find antiques inside proper shops such as Motakis and Martinos, packed with lighting, furnishings, and vintage Greek army regalia.
Hotel Grande Bretagne’s pool deck.
Stay
There’s no Athens view more enviable than the one from The Dolli’s rooftop pool to the columns of the Parthenon across the urban canyon. Below, 46 rooms, suites, and apartments fill luminous, cream-colored spaces in a restored 1925 property once home to a shipping magnate and politician. Guests are welcomed with a whole sponge cake and fresh berries. Virtuoso travelers receive breakfast daily and a $100 hotel credit.
Founded 151 years ago by chef-hotelier Efstathios Lampsas, widely regarded as the father of modern Greek hospitality, the Hotel Grande Bretagne sits directly across from the Parliament building. The landmark’s 320 rooms exude the elegance of chic city apartments; many have balconies that offer front-row seats for the Changing of the Guard ceremony. Regal doesn’t mean fusty: On the eighth floor looking out on the Acropolis, the GB Roof Garden is an ideal spot for everything from a sunny family brunch to a glamorous late-night rendezvous with Athens’ social set.
Jetset Journeys travelers receive breakfast daily and a $100 dining credit.
